"The following article is not complete
and is not the result of a guided motorcycle tour offered by Maya
Moto Tours. However, we think it gives the reader a good impression
of what he can expect from the trip.
We kindly thank Bill Haycock (whaycoc@ibm.net
) for his permission to publish a few pages covering parts of our
itinerary."
The Maya Road
published in 1998 by
Bill Haycock
There
is nothing like Tikal: Towering pyramids rise above the jungle's green
canopy. Howler monkeys swing noisily through the branches of trees as
brightly colored parrots dart from tree to tree. Many species of
butterflies were present displaying a wide range of colors and designs.
Certainly
the most striking feature of Tikal is its steep-sided temples, rising to
heights of more than 44 meters. But Tikal is different from Chichen Itza,
Uxmal, Copan and other great Mayan sites because it is deep in the
jungle. Its many plazas have been cleared of vines and trees, its
temples uncovered and partially restored, but as you walk from one
building to the next you pass beneath the dense canopy of the rain
forest.
Tikal is set on a low hill. The hill, affording relief from the
surrounding low-lying swampy ground, may be why the Maya settled here
around 700 BC. Another reason was the abundance of flint, the valuable
stone used to make clubs, spear points, arrowheads and knives. Within
200 years the Maya of Tikal had begun to build stone ceremonial
structures, and by 200 BC there was a complex of buildings on the site
of the North Acropolis.
By
the time of Christ, the Great Plaza was beginning to assume its present
shape and extent. With the dawn of the Early Classic period about 250
AD, Tikal was an important religious, cultural and commercial city with
a large population.
By the middle of the Classic period, in the mid-500s, Tikal's
military strength allowed it to grow until it sprawled over 30 sq km and
had a population of over 100,000.
Around 700 a new and powerful king named Ah Cacau ascended the throne
of Tikal. He and his successors were responsible for building most of
the great temples around the Great Plaza, which survive today.
The
greatness of Tikal collapsed around 900, and it was not alone in its
downfall. If you recall back to many other cities described on this trip,
around 900 AD seems to be a common time frame for many of the Mayan
cities to collapse and decay. The reason for this collapse is yet a
mystery, although many theories are presented, no one theory has
prevailed.
We spent two days in Tikal. The rain forest type rain continued for
most of our stay. The rain was typical of the rain forest-light, steady,
and misty. Although a slight inconvenience, it did not cause any problem
as far as viewing the ruins. In fact, it added a degree of mystery and
beauty to the whole experience.
At this point, all of us are wondering about the condition of the 70
miles of dirt road leading from Flores (south of Tikal ruins) to the
next paved road in the southern part of Guatemala. We had to ride this
road if we wanted to get to Antigua, our next destination. During the
last year we had tried to research this road as many stories and
articles had informed us it was very difficult and at times impassable.
The rain would not help! We decided to give it a try - we could always
turn back! (sure!!) Who ever turns back? Besides, what is Dual Sport
riding without a little mud and dirt!
The
road from Flores to Dolores, San Luis, Modesto Mendez, crossing Largo (lake)
Izabal and finally dead-ending into highway 9 was, at one time, all dirt
and very rough. Two years ago, a friend of ours, Frank Campbell, rode
this road and it took him over ten bone jarring and pot-holed filled
hours to make the trip! We did not know if it would be better or worse,
especially with two days of rain to factor in!
As it turned out, the road is much improved and is now paved from San
Luis to the Guatemala main highway 9 which runs from their port of
Puerto Barrios to Guatemala City.
We
had a very enjoyable ride down this road. It was muddy but no problem
for a typical Dual Sport ride! Stopping along the way to visit the local
Indians, Mennonite missions, and other travelers was a highlight of the
trip.
Once off the dirt part of the road we knew we were "home free!" Just
as I was trying to imagine walking into the lobby of a nice hotel
covered from head to foot with mud I noticed Robert slowing down and
turning off to a road leading down to a fast moving stream. We followed
and soon realized what Robert had in mind. It became evident as we
watched Robert wade into the stream and begin to wash himself off! One
has to imagine how it must have looked to the native Indians standing on
the bridge as they watched five "Gringos" splashing around, fully
clothed, in the stream. It worked! Within ten minutes we were clean from
head to foot-although wet- but with Aerostich jackets and pants it made
no difference, only the outer layers were wet and clean. We even cleaned
up the luggage and saddle bags! John began to wash his bike, but we said
"enough John," we don't want to look "too good!" (The guard at the Hotel
ended up washing the bikes.)
We arrived in Largo Izabal early in the afternoon and checked into a
nice resort hotel on the lake that Frank Campbell had recommended from
his trip of two years ago. The Hotel Turismo Marimonte is located just
after crossing the long bridge over lake Izabal, about one km past the
lake, with the turn off about 100 meters on the left past the Shell
station. You will see the gate and armed guard on your left. This is a
very comfortable and up-scale resort, catering to the boating crowd of
wealthy Guatemalans. During the week it is virtually empty but we were
told it is generally full on weekends as upper class Guatemala hangs out
here with their families and boats.
On to Antigua! We left early in the morning for the ride to Guatemala
City and then the short ride to Antigua. This is a very twisty, mountain
type road, filled with heavy trucks going from Puerto Barrios to
Guatemala City. Be careful on this road! The combination of high
altitude, mountain curves and long lines of slow moving trucks can cause
one to be impatient and take risks one would not normally take. Pass
with care and use good judgment here!
Entering Guatemala City we knew we were in for a maze of streets and
unsigned roads. We had determined we would stay together the best we
could but cautioned against unsafe riding "just to keep up!" Robert did
a fantastic job of getting us through. We became disoriented a few times
but the group stayed together, remained calm, and Robert was able to get
us through with a minimum of confusion and back tracking - great job
Robert and the total group for "hanging in there!"
Going through Guatemala city requires a little map work and a good
attitude. It is a large, dirty, noisy city with very poor signage - just
try to keep heading west, ask directions often, stay calm and you will
eventually make it. After all, its all part of the adventure!
Approaching Antigua, one climbs to higher elevation and the
temperature begins to drop, the air clears and one is rewarded with the
beauty of volcanoes, great twisty roads, and the anticipation of one of
the most beautiful and well preserved Colonial Spanish cities in Central
America-we were not disappointed!
Antigua
is located in the highlands at an altitude of approximately 4,800 feet.
It has a population of around 28,000 people. It is among the oldest and
most beautiful cities in the Americas. Its setting is superb, amidst
three volcanoes named Fuego, Agua, and Acatenango. Fuego (fire) is
easily recognized by its plume of smoke and - at night - by the red glow
it projects against the sky.
Founded in 1542, Antigua has weathered 16 damaging earthquakes,
floods and fires. The sturdy colonial buildings which remain have proved
their worth over and over again.
There
are many churches and old colonial buildings to visit. The central plaza
is the center of activity each night. One can spend
We
chose to stay at the Hotel Convento Santa Catalina as it is one of the
original Convents of the early period of Spanish dominance here.
Recently restored and made into a hotel it still has its original
character and charm. It is located about two doors south of the famous
and impossible to miss "Arch." The arch used to be a main
entrance into the city hundreds of years ago. Also, the hotel is only a
few blocks from the Plaza so one can walk to all the important sights
from the Arch.