"The following article is not complete
and is not the result of a guided motorcycle tour offered by Maya
Moto Tours. However, we think it gives the reader a good impression
of what he can expect from the trip.
We kindly thank Bill Haycock for his permission to publish a few pages covering parts of our
itinerary."
The Maya Road
Bill Haycock
There
is nothing like Tikal: Towering pyramids rise above the jungle's green
canopy. Howler monkeys swing noisily through the branches of trees as
brightly colored parrots dart from tree to tree. Many species of
butterflies were present displaying a wide range of colors and designs.
Certainly
the most striking feature of Tikal is its steep-sided temples, rising to
heights of more than 44 meters. But Tikal is different from Chichen Itza,
Uxmal, Copan and other great Mayan sites because it is deep in the
jungle. Its many plazas have been cleared of vines and trees, its
temples uncovered and partially restored, but as you walk from one
building to the next you pass beneath the dense canopy of the rain
forest.
Tikal is set on a low hill. The hill, affording relief from the
surrounding low-lying swampy ground, may be why the Maya settled here
around 700 BC. Another reason was the abundance of flint, the valuable
stone used to make clubs, spear points, arrowheads and knives. Within
200 years the Maya of Tikal had begun to build stone ceremonial
structures, and by 200 BC there was a complex of buildings on the site
of the North Acropolis.
By
the time of Christ, the Great Plaza was beginning to assume its present
shape and extent. With the dawn of the Early Classic period about 250
AD, Tikal was an important religious, cultural and commercial city with
a large population.
By the middle of the Classic period, in the mid-500s, Tikal's
military strength allowed it to grow until it sprawled over 30 sq km and
had a population of over 100,000.
Around 700 a new and powerful king named Ah Cacau ascended the throne
of Tikal. He and his successors were responsible for building most of
the great temples around the Great Plaza, which survive today.
The
greatness of Tikal collapsed around 900, and it was not alone in its
downfall. If you recall back to many other cities described on this trip,
around 900 AD seems to be a common time frame for many of the Mayan
cities to collapse and decay. The reason for this collapse is yet a
mystery, although many theories are presented, no one theory has
prevailed.
On to Antigua! We left early in the morning for the ride to Guatemala
City and then the short ride to Antigua. This is a very twisty, mountain
type road, filled with heavy trucks going from Puerto Barrios to
Guatemala City. Be careful on this road! The combination of high
altitude, mountain curves and long lines of slow moving trucks can cause
one to be impatient and take risks one would not normally take. Pass
with care and use good judgment here!
Entering Guatemala City we knew we were in for a maze of streets and
unsigned roads. We had determined we would stay together the best we
could but cautioned against unsafe riding "just to keep up!" Robert did
a fantastic job of getting us through. We became disoriented a few times
but the group stayed together, remained calm, and Robert was able to get
us through with a minimum of confusion and back tracking - great job
Robert and the total group for "hanging in there!"
Going through Guatemala city requires a little map work and a good
attitude. It is a large, dirty, noisy city with very poor signage - just
try to keep heading west, ask directions often, stay calm and you will
eventually make it. After all, its all part of the adventure!
Approaching Antigua, one climbs to higher elevation and the
temperature begins to drop, the air clears and one is rewarded with the
beauty of volcanoes, great twisty roads, and the anticipation of one of
the most beautiful and well preserved Colonial Spanish cities in Central
America-we were not disappointed!
Antigua
is located in the highlands at an altitude of approximately 4,800 feet.
It has a population of around 28,000 people. It is among the oldest and
most beautiful cities in the Americas. Its setting is superb, amidst
three volcanoes named Fuego, Agua, and Acatenango. Fuego (fire) is
easily recognized by its plume of smoke and - at night - by the red glow
it projects against the sky.
Founded in 1542, Antigua has weathered 16 damaging earthquakes,
floods and fires. The sturdy colonial buildings which remain have proved
their worth over and over again.
There
are many churches and old colonial buildings to visit. The central plaza
is the center of activity each night. One can spendat least a few days just visiting the many museums in the city.
We
chose to stay at the Hotel Convento Santa Catalina as it is one of the
original Convents of the early period of Spanish dominance here.
Recently restored and made into a hotel it still has its original
character and charm. It is located about two doors south of the famous
and impossible to miss "Arch." The arch used to be a main
entrance into the city hundreds of years ago. Also, the hotel is only a
few blocks from the Plaza so one can walk to all the important sights
from the Arch.